dual celerons behave a little odd
You often can´t overclock a dual setup as far as you can overclock each processor in a single setup. In my 2x366@523, I have one CPU that could be overclocked to 550 and one I could get to ~600. But they are not entirely stable in this dual setup @550, so I clocked them down to 523. Still ok, I believe:)
BP6, RU BIOS, XP SP3, ACPI, 2x366@523(1,95V), Pentalpha HS + 1x 12cm fan @5V, 768MB, Powercolor Geforce 3, RTL8139D NIC, Terratec EWS64L, Samsung M40 80GB (2,5''), LiteOn CDRW
I had a BP6 that was definitely stabilized by that. But that was one with caps going bad. I have an 8cm @7V blowing from a distance of 3cm to the chipset heatsink right now (it actually stands on the video card...). But I still can´t go beyond 523 (occasional Winzip errors when opening large archives at 550).
The temperatures in my pc case are rather high, ventilation is bad because the few fans are all running @7V, including the PSU fan (but the machine is so quiet... I sometimes switch it off when I want to switch it on, because I do not always hear it is running), so I think the fan does no harm and may add to overall stability.
Still I would not trust a machine that is only stable when the chipset is actively cooled. I know many modern boards have a fan on the northbridge. But many of them are intended for hardcore overclockers, who like any additional headroom. Would be ok for me for a gaming machine.
The temperatures in my pc case are rather high, ventilation is bad because the few fans are all running @7V, including the PSU fan (but the machine is so quiet... I sometimes switch it off when I want to switch it on, because I do not always hear it is running), so I think the fan does no harm and may add to overall stability.
Still I would not trust a machine that is only stable when the chipset is actively cooled. I know many modern boards have a fan on the northbridge. But many of them are intended for hardcore overclockers, who like any additional headroom. Would be ok for me for a gaming machine.
BP6, RU BIOS, XP SP3, ACPI, 2x366@523(1,95V), Pentalpha HS + 1x 12cm fan @5V, 768MB, Powercolor Geforce 3, RTL8139D NIC, Terratec EWS64L, Samsung M40 80GB (2,5''), LiteOn CDRW
Northbridge ("greenie") cooling
Make sure to first remove the green heatsink, scrape off any paste, replace witha VERY thin layer of Arctic Silver(worth its' weight in gold, no kidding!), replace heatsink and add a fan.
I got mine at Radio Shack, 'bout $4 if I remember right but if you have an old 486 fan it will work and even fit in same holes!
I got mine at Radio Shack, 'bout $4 if I remember right but if you have an old 486 fan it will work and even fit in same holes!
I replaced my greenie with a GlobalWin LAC08 HSF. The pushpins line up, and it looks rather nice. Arctic Silver lies underneath. Go here for pictures:
http://www.bp6.com/board/album_personal.php?user_id=10
http://www.bp6.com/board/album_personal.php?user_id=10
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artic silver is a waste to me
i got a $3.99 tube of techspray transistor heatsink compound and lost about 8F in temps
i got a $3.99 tube of techspray transistor heatsink compound and lost about 8F in temps
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The cheaper silicone-based compounds need to be replaced after a while. Arctic Silver does not.
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Arctic Silver is said to be rather coarse grained, so if you have a very polished heatsink, some say you get better results with other stuff.
But for me it is more important that Arctic Silver is not conductive. So if you use too much of it and smear some of it over your uncovered Athlon/Duron bridges, there´s no danger for the CPU.
Personally, I seem to get better results with a rather thick layer than with a very thin coating.
But for me it is more important that Arctic Silver is not conductive. So if you use too much of it and smear some of it over your uncovered Athlon/Duron bridges, there´s no danger for the CPU.
Personally, I seem to get better results with a rather thick layer than with a very thin coating.
BP6, RU BIOS, XP SP3, ACPI, 2x366@523(1,95V), Pentalpha HS + 1x 12cm fan @5V, 768MB, Powercolor Geforce 3, RTL8139D NIC, Terratec EWS64L, Samsung M40 80GB (2,5''), LiteOn CDRW
Arctic Silver is slightly conductive.
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Hmm, I got this from http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silv ... ctions.htm
"While much safer than silver greases engineered for high electrical conductivity, Arctic Silver thermal compound should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. The compound is slightly capacitive and could cause problems if it bridged two close-proximity electrical paths."
But maybe they're just covering their derrieres...
"While much safer than silver greases engineered for high electrical conductivity, Arctic Silver thermal compound should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. The compound is slightly capacitive and could cause problems if it bridged two close-proximity electrical paths."
But maybe they're just covering their derrieres...
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