Watercooling with the NEO370 installed?
Think twice about what you expect to acheive with water cooling. Reading these threads, you will see that with a good air cooled copper CPU sink (EverCool 715+70mm fan) & chipset cooling, it is fairly easy to reach 110MHz FSM speeds with Cele2 & P-III CPUs on Neo-370 socket adapters.
Yet often the H2O cooled systems still can't run stable at 124Mhz.
So what's the point of H2O cooling if it doesnt get you to 124MHz??
If you're just trying to max out your Cele1 300 or 366 chips fine.
I'd spend my time, energy & $ on an air cooled, dual P-III/1100E setup & OC them at 110MHz for a combined 2.42GHz of CPU power.
Yet often the H2O cooled systems still can't run stable at 124Mhz.
So what's the point of H2O cooling if it doesnt get you to 124MHz??
If you're just trying to max out your Cele1 300 or 366 chips fine.
I'd spend my time, energy & $ on an air cooled, dual P-III/1100E setup & OC them at 110MHz for a combined 2.42GHz of CPU power.
Yes! I'm all for the silent PC! With my wife bugging me about how loud a well air-cooled system gets, I know just where your coming from on that. So far, my best efforts at lowering the air-cooled sound level of my wife's PC have yielded some improvement, but for $200 of H/W swapping, I don't see much bang for the buck spent in this area. Maybe I'm a candidate for H20 cooling too.
RRLedford: I think you may have assumed that he was going for max overclock because the way to do that is to use peltiers, which need watercooling to remove the extreme heat from the hot side of the peltier.
But there is one advantage of H2O over air-cooling without using peltiers, and that is, as was said................
.................[Silence]
BTW, to keep my air-cooled BP6 quiet, I use the "7V Trick"
http://people.freenet.de/s.urfer/7vtrick.htm
The 7V line powers my 2 x GlobalWin FEP32 and LAC08 Northbridge cooler, and case fans. The quality of the heatsinks makes any advantage in powering the fans from the 12V line negligable. And I can get a good night's sleep!
But there is one advantage of H2O over air-cooling without using peltiers, and that is, as was said................
.................[Silence]
BTW, to keep my air-cooled BP6 quiet, I use the "7V Trick"
http://people.freenet.de/s.urfer/7vtrick.htm
The 7V line powers my 2 x GlobalWin FEP32 and LAC08 Northbridge cooler, and case fans. The quality of the heatsinks makes any advantage in powering the fans from the 12V line negligable. And I can get a good night's sleep!
At tip on water cooling from the techniques used in blast furnaces & other high temp process environments (2000-4000F.) -
The key to efficient water cooling, especially at highest temps. when the the hot zone can melt the metal that's between the hot zone and the water, is to have as thin a layer of metal as mechanically practical.
Then you pump high velocity (equals high turbulance) H2O across this thin layer of metal to acheive such a high rate of heat removal that both sides of the metal layer stay at a cool enough temp for it to keep from melting. You want to get the high turbulance H2O as close to the hot zone as possible.
A thick layer metal between the heat source & the water makes for bad cooling. Low turbulence at the metal/water interface makes for bad cooling.
Obviously the metal layer must be strong enough not to deform under the pressure of the clip-to-socket scheme. But just having a cylindrical tunnel thru a big thick block of copper or aluminum with a low-flow aquarium pump is no way to make a decent water cooling rig.
The key to efficient water cooling, especially at highest temps. when the the hot zone can melt the metal that's between the hot zone and the water, is to have as thin a layer of metal as mechanically practical.
Then you pump high velocity (equals high turbulance) H2O across this thin layer of metal to acheive such a high rate of heat removal that both sides of the metal layer stay at a cool enough temp for it to keep from melting. You want to get the high turbulance H2O as close to the hot zone as possible.
A thick layer metal between the heat source & the water makes for bad cooling. Low turbulence at the metal/water interface makes for bad cooling.
Obviously the metal layer must be strong enough not to deform under the pressure of the clip-to-socket scheme. But just having a cylindrical tunnel thru a big thick block of copper or aluminum with a low-flow aquarium pump is no way to make a decent water cooling rig.