So Far So Good: 1.4GHz Tualatin on a BP6

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Wolfram
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Joined: Tue Jul 30, 2002 3:19 am
Location: Germany

Post by Wolfram »

InactiveX wrote:The FCPGA2 spec is a bit vague. Some are pin compatible with FCPGA, some aren't, eg my PIII933 is FCPGA2 with IHS, but it fits on an FCPGA board. Laater FCPGA2 chips have a different pin-out.
Oh. Interesting. But your processor isn´t a Tualatin, right? I had always thought only Tualatins came in the FCPGA2 package. And that all Coppermines were FCPGA without IHS.
BP6, RU BIOS, XP SP3, ACPI, 2x366@523(1,95V), Pentalpha HS + 1x 12cm fan @5V, 768MB, Powercolor Geforce 3, RTL8139D NIC, Terratec EWS64L, Samsung M40 80GB (2,5''), LiteOn CDRW
InactiveX
BeOS Forever
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Post by InactiveX »

It's not a Tualatin. It is a Coppermine. Some of the faster CuMines come in FCPGA2 packaging, and I'm not quite sure where the boundaries lay. It really confused me when I bought my Abit CUSL2-C board and PIII933 FCPGA2 and I wasn't sure whether they'd get on together. They did though.

Like I said, it's very vague. :?: :?: :?:
tfasth
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Tualatin

Post by tfasth »

hey guys, you can read everything about Piii's at here: http://www.intel.com/design/PentiumIII/ ... 445349.pdf

there is detailed specs of every P3 CPU ever made, serial numbers, SMP compability and support, and so forth...
WOLVERINE
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Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2003 5:12 pm
Location: Seattle, WA

Post by WOLVERINE »

Well I tried this. The MBM5 complained that the case temp was too high at 163 F (1.5 vcore) . It ran for 4 to 5 days and burnt up the PSU and 8 caps and two coils on the mobo.

I'm now looking for that vtt mod that upgrades those caps etc... And I also noticed the north bridge was cooking so I got a chipset fan for it.

Someone told me to use a cpu terminator in the open cpu socket. This caused all the lights to come on and the computer not to function at all. So whats with these cpu terminators ?
InactiveX
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Post by InactiveX »

WOLVERINE wrote:So whats with these cpu terminators ?
Hi WOLVERINE,

Never heard of a CPU terminator. What is it?

(And all you wags out there, don't tell me it terminates a CPU.)
tfasth
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Post by tfasth »

Never heard of it either!?! To me it sounds like a device to destroy the CPU with! :)
WOLVERINE
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Location: Seattle, WA

Post by WOLVERINE »

well I was originally told that it came with the motherboard for when you use a single cpu. Said it made it more stabble. It looks like a cpu without a chip in the middle. just some resisters and stuff on it. It looks very simular to this one:
Image
The one I have is a Dell DP/N: 64VFU Terminator. I guess the BP6 works fine without a cpu terminator.

All 8 1000uf 10v caps were bulging at the top. L-1/L-18 coils were burnt to a crisp. :P I was gonna just replace the caps with 1200uf caps and rewind the L-1/L-18 magnet wire but then I found this nifty kit that has all that and more:

The BP6 CapKit includes:
2 @ 100uf /16v low ESR Aluminum Electrolytic.
25@ 1200uf 6.3volt low E.S.R. Aluminum electrolytic.
Solder wick. (aprox 30")
Silver based solder (aprox 5ft)
Kester 44 solder (aprox 3ft)
2 lengths of 18AGW Silver-Teflon wire
Enamel coated magnet wire (aprox 18")
Photo of wiring mod.
Basic instructions.

Notes:
1) L-1 & L-18 should be direct wired to the 5 volt ATX connections on the bottom side of the board (see included picture).
2) C-10 is replaced with a 1200uf 8mm cap.
3) Replace all caps rated 1000uf and above with 1200uf .
4) Replace EC-29/30 with the 100uf/16volt caps supplied.
5) If L-1/L-18 show signs of severe overheating, they must be re-wound. Remove the coil assy rom the board, un-wind the coil & straighten the wire, cut a new length of magnet wire to match the old length + 1 inch.Use a toothbrush to clean the burnt paint from the ferrite cores, coat the core with clear fingernail polish & let it dry for about 10 minutes, Use sandpaper or a razer blade to remove the enamal coating aprox 1/2" on each end, pre-tin the ends with the silver solder supllied, re-wind the coils exactly the way it was wound from the factory (should be seven complete turns), clean the plate-thru holes, install the coils flush, solder & trim the leads to 1/8" , add the silver-Teflon jumpers by wrapping the silver wire around the trimmed lead 1 complete turn.Connect the other end of the jumpers to the 5volt atx connections on the bottom side of the board (5 volt lines are the pins that connect to the 2 red wires at the corner of the ATX plug.
I use a small dab of silicone glue to hold the wires flush to the bottom of the board, that way it's less likely to snag them during future changes/mods/upgrades.

Price: $26.50 + 3.85 Shipping inside the U.S. $8.85 Shipping outside the U.S.

http://www.motherboardrepair.com/index. ... it&kit=bp6
InactiveX
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Post by InactiveX »

Sorry, edit, wrong thread!

:roll:

It's been one of those days for me..............
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